High monsoon temperatures go hand in hand with high rainfall and very high humidity across Cambodia from April to October. We took a punt and chose November for travelling to Vietnam and Cambodia, aiming for the end of the monsoon and catching the last high-water sailing for our chosen boutique river cruise along the Mekong River. This meant, along with wading through the air and sweating more than was attractive, we experienced sailing across Tonle Sap Lake, life continuing as normal despite the water level, the roofs of abandoned shops, signposts and even billboards only just above the water line, ready to be reclaimed as the lake level drops along with the winter dry season temperatures.
The “Lost Civilisation” itinerary took us from the hustle and bustle of Saigon up the mighty Mekong River to the border with Cambodia, and on to the capital of Phnom Penh, the 7th century pre-Angkorian temple of Wat Hanchey and on to Siem Reap.
The advantages of a river cruise in this region include the ability to visit places many don’t, as you meander through Vietnam’s rural heartland. This river is the absolutely life-blood of Vietnam, as people depend on it to irrigate their rice paddies, fruit orchards and floating fish farms. Observing the everyday lives of river side communities was every bit as fascinating as the many excursions we enjoyed.
Stepping aboard the beautiful Jahan, into its cool, polished interior, was a treat. The main reception area is also a large comfortable lounge with deep, welcoming sofas, gleaming wooden detail, muted lampshades casting a gentle light across an oversized chess set and a bookshelf crammed with all sorts of material in several languages.
Huge Cambodian smiles welcomed us with glasses of iced tea and before we knew it, we were in our spacious and luxurious cabin, luggage appearing as if by magic.
Days were taken up with early morning Tai Chi (a great wake-up routine, even for this uncoordinated oaf), about a hundred utterly delicious meals a day (well, ok, perhaps about five), authentic and informative excursions to local villages, schools, artisan workshops and temples, massages in the charming on board spa, films, lectures or monk blessings, fashion and dance performances in the afternoons and evenings… or you could sit by the pool and drink cocktails all day. The choice is yours.
The best thing of all? Those smiles. The staff, who miraculously remember everyone’s names by the second day, are attentive, friendly, helpful, cheeky, and so much fun. Nothing is too much trouble and they, without exception, have made sure we will most certainly return. That punt paid off.
Check out my itinerary here – The Lost Civilisation
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