The chance to see so many lemurs, chameleons, and explore an African country that has evolved without large mammals. Beautiful coastal areas, stunning geological vistas. Then there are the people – crowds of, walking, carrying, pushing, pulling, riding, smiling, babies, toddlers, children carrying babies. People making bricks, rum, charcoal, gardening, hoeing, tending livestock etc. I could go on and on about the amazing people. Everyone working, everyone smiling. Sure they have cellphones, but everything was hand labour, with an impressive amount of recycling. Amazing. So was it the wildlife or the humanity that enthralled me most? I think a combination, which leaves me grateful to have visited that special island. And our host, young Paul, what can I say. Just the best. Truly.